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A pesar de tener sus raíces en la artesanía, la firma es innegablemente moderna. Antes de su desfile, disfrutamos de un adelanto de su colección (y sí, incluye un nuevo bolso que ya queremos)



Lauren Indvik  Es una tarde sin nubes antes del desfile de Loewe y Jonathan Anderson, el chico maravilla de 35 años que tomó la dirección creativa de la casa hace cinco años, está agitado. Con un atractivo casi infantil que destaca con una camiseta negra y unos vaqueros, suelta una bocanada de humo de cigarro mientras se sienta frente a una larga y alfombrada habitación en la que se confecciona la colección de la siguiente temporada. La luz del sol parisino se cuela desde la plaza. Una asistente le entrega con deferencia un espresso en una taza de porcelana oscura, una que sin duda fue elegida por Anderson, quien menciona la cerámica entre sus obsesiones personales.

En cinco años, Anderson ha redefinido los cimientos de la casa de moda más antigua del grupo LVMH. Cuando se unió a la compañía, pasó un año reformando cada elemento de la marca –desde el logotipo hasta el estilo de los comunicados de prensa – antes de comenzar a trabajar en su colección debut de ready-to-wear“No quería que Loewe fuera reconstruida de la noche a la mañana, porque había sido atacada antes y todavía carga con problemas inherentes”, recuerda, hablando con un acento del norte de Irlanda que se hace evidente cuando pronuncia palabras como idea –pronunciándola en inglés como “ai-di-ar”. Al mismo tiempo, quería que se sintiera como algo que siempre ha estado ahí”.

El resultado es una marca que se siente enraizada en la artesanía y la tradición, y, al mismo tiempo, moderna. Sus bolsos tejidos y de cuero son lujosos, funcionales y distintivos. Su vocabulario de moda es definido. Un look de Loewe –basado en el clasicismo, pero con una forma limpia y contemporánea– es inconfundible en un raíl de ropa.



Hay un peso placentero en muchas de las telas que Anderson elige para Loewe, pero su última colección se trata completamente de la ligereza y de lo que él describe como “movimiento cinético”, en parte inspirado por el trabajo de la artista italiana Lara Favaretto, quien diseñó los pinceles giratorios que aparecen en el escenario de esta temporada. El shibori blanco se emplea en unos pantalones de verano ligeros como el papel. Un vestido de crepe blanco decorado al frente con pesadas cuentas opalescentes compensadas por capas de seda transparente y encaje, mientras voluminosas faldas de algodón son acomodadas hacia adentro como si fueran bolsas de papel. Los jerséis con mangas tipo obispo son tejidos con amplias puntadas para conseguir un efecto inflado. El movimiento de los pinceles de Favaretto es imitado con amplios brochazos y columnas de flecos. Hay un elemento de aspereza –fricción cinética– en la aspereza de las telas arrugadas y de los parches de gamuza de las chaquetas. Una cálida paleta de tonos beige, arena y naranja es templada por azul hielo y verde bosque.

Loewe se mantiene principalmente y ante todo como una casa de marroquinería, y este temporada Anderson presentará un bucket bag hecho de piel blanca y ajustado con cordones color tabaco. Al momento de la entrevista,todavía no tiene nombre. Los bolsos Gate y Puzzle también han sido renovados –este último hermosamente realizado con piel tejida que inspirada por una obra inscrita a la competencia anual Loewe Craft Prize, que Anderson estableció en 2016.

Hablamos con Anderson acerca de su proceso de diseño, sus primeros cinco años en Loewe y lo que ha preparado para los siguientes cinco.



Acerca de reinventar Loewe
“Lo que pasa con muchas marcas históricas es que se les pone tantas capas de pintura encima que, literalmente, se vuelven barrocas. Todo termina reducido a la idea de un turista. Para mí fue una cuestión de quitar capas de pintura en un período de cuatro años. El deshacerme de todo eso, llegas a enfocarte en los materiales, la napa, la piel, la mano. Realmente, Loewe no tenía un vocabulario en el campo de la ropa, era una marca que vendía bolsos. Ahora la moda es un componente muy importante. Estás construyendo un lenguaje de moda con el peso histórico de los productos de piel”.

Acerca de la colección femenina de esta temporada
“En esta colección estoy explorando la idea del límite que divide la felicidad de la tristeza, y cuál es ese límite. Así que hay cierto sentimiento de melancolía en ella. Fue escuchar música de Verdi y pensar acerca de cómo al mismo tiempo te hace sentir animado y emotivo. Estamos muy acostumbrados a vestir a personas fuertes, pero ¿qué pasa con la vulnerabilidad? ¿Qué significa vulnerabilidad? Creo que se necesita eso en la ropa, creo que se necesita ese lado vulnerable. ¿Está acaso en las gafas de sol que ocultan una parte de ti? Hacemos eso. ¿O es el satén lo que hace que se convierta en algo adormilado que seduce a través del tacto?

Acerca de desarrollar una colección
“En Loewe trabajamos como con seis meses de anticipación, porque la sesión de fotos para la campaña se realiza antes del desfile con Steven [Meisel], de manera que todo se lanza al mismo tiempo. Comenzamos con una investigación durante aproximadamente un mes. El proceso puede oscilar desde cosas aleatorias que he encontrado, a objetos en los archivos. Desde el primer día trabajo con el estilista Benjamin Bruno. Hacemos como diez pruebas. La investigación de telas viene en la segunda prueba, hacemos pruebas en toile y luego empezamos a hacer la asignación, y entonces viene el encargo del tejido y trabajamos en formas en que podemos traducir algo a través de un tejido o viceversa, y de ahí es una serie de ediciones. Elegimos diez looks que serán fotografiados por Steven [Meisel], masculino y femenino, y vamos a Nueva York. Cuando regresamos la colección se desarrolla aún más, y nuevamente editamos, editamos, editamos, y luego agregamos colores. Empezamos a diseñar días antes del verano, y entonces se guardan los looks bajo llave cuando regresamos de vacaciones, y entramos directamente a esto. Yo hago J.W. [Anderson] y vengo aquí. Y ambos tienen que ser muy diferentes”.



Acerca de la importancia trabajar en 3D
“Ya no dibujo tanto como antes. Ahora necesito trabajar en tres dimensiones –puedo moverlo más rápido y al mismo tiempo puedo profundizar más en él. Algunas veces creo que la maldición de la moda actualmente es que la ropa parece Photoshop, se vuelve muy 2D. Prefiero trabajar con muestras y volúmenes”.

Acerca del escenario
“Trabajo con el escenario en mente [desde el principio]. Siempre he visto [el escenario del desfile] como la casa de una mujer. Una temporada lo reconstruye, o agrega una nueva obra de arte, o quita algo, o deja de fumar una temporada. De una forma extraña, es una forma de alter ego de mí mismo.

Acerca de dirigir un equipo creativo
“Al principio [le pedí a los maestros artesanos] que diseñaran el bolso que quisieran diseñar. Nadie les había pedido antes que hicieran eso. Las personas están acostumbradas a que se les ordene. De ello encontré muchos detalles que ahora usamos. Porque cuando das libertad a la gente, se les ocurren nuevas cosas. Si controlara todo de forma excesiva, a) estaría loco y b) el resultado sería horrible. Porque en definitiva, por mucho que la gente crea que los diseñadores hacen todo esto, en realidad no es así, es un grupo enorme de gente, gente increíblemente talentosa, entre bambalinas que hacen que todo esto suceda. Puedo ser duro, pero dejo que la gente haga lo que siente que es correcto. Tienes que pensar creativamente [en toda la empresa] en finanzas. Y haz algo que quieras hacer. Porque si no quieres hacerlo, nunca me darás nada bueno”.



Acerca de equilibrar dos líneas
“Algunas veces se cruzan y otras no. Son dos equipos diferentes, dos zonas horarias diferentes. Hay un viaje en Eurostar muy sustancial que te ayuda a descomprimirte de todo. Además Londres tiene una energía muy diferente a la de París. Aún me siento como un turista [en París]. Vengo aquí a trabajar, pero al mismo tiempo, es como si estuviera de visita. Y Loewe en cierto modo, también está de visita, porque es una marca española. Por eso, cuando empecé, decidimos presentarnos en la ONU, porque es como un terreno que no pertenece a nadie”.

Acerca de equilibrar la continuidad con la novedad
“A veces creo que cuando has estado en una marca un tiempo, te das cuenta de esos momentos en que necesitas ser aburrido, porque me muevo a unos 1,000 kilómetros por hora y a la gente le lleva su tiempo ponerse al día. Y a veces sabes cuándo necesitas electrificar las cosas. Cuando me estoy aburriendo, sé que tengo que trabajar más en la colección, o si es un bolso necesito reinventarlo. Además la moda es una competencia. En última instancia, tienes que vender el producto. Y tienes que entender realmente a quién le quieres vender porque no le vas a venderle a todos”.

Acerca de crecer lentamente y hacer que Loewe perdure
“Se trata de realmente mantenerte firme y no escuchar demasiado ruido. Asegurarte de ser motivado en términos de hacer un buen producto. La marca está creciendo y en realidad siento que la mujer está muy definida ahora. Cuando miras la ropa o un bolso Loewe, sabes que es Loewe. Se trata de ser mejor de manera constante. Siempre puedes mejorar. Básicamente, el objetivo es hacer una marca más productiva para que puedas emplear a más personas. Siento que tengo una responsabilidad con Loewe. No soy dueño de Loewe. Es una marca que viene desde 1846. No quiero estropearla. Quiero asegurarme de que pueda durar otros 200 años”.

Las zapatillas Converse del desfile de J. W. Anderson han entrado en nuestra lista de deseos

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